Cape Town - Lekkerwijn Historic Country House, at the foot of the Hellshoogte Pass, is equidistant from Paarl, Stellenbosch and Franschhoek, so you’d be forgiven for thinking it might have an identity crisis.
But no, its identity and history is as intact as its ancient timber and it predates much of those towns, with a land grant given to one Ari L’Ecrivant in 1690.
And here the neighbours come into the picture. First, they couldn’t pronounce his name so bastardised it to Lekkerwijn, then nine years later Hans Silberbach, who owned Delta farm next door, upped and killed him with a club.
Relations have thankfully improved greatly since Englishman Harry Pickstone arrived via California in 1892 with expertise in fruit growing, found a financial backer in Cecil Rhodes at a time when Phylloxera had decimated the wine industry, and bought up farms to convert to fruit.
Industrious, progressive Harry and his family forged bonds with the local farmers and with people like Baden Powell, Rudyard Kipling, artist Ruth Prowse and architect Sir Herbert Baker.
The old part of the house still has yellowwood ceilings, doors, windows and shutters dating back to the 1700s. Baker added on, resulting in the only internal courtyard in any Cape Dutch homestead, boasting a large, ancient pomegranate.
Other distinctive features are a flat portion of roof for summer sleeping and the tall, slim Washingtonia palm trees that Harry planted.
I was in what was present incumbent Simon Pickstone’s day nursery. Apt, not just because I am a boy in men’s size clothing, but because he is a child psychiatrist and wants to keep the atmosphere of a home – not a hotel – so children are more than welcome at Lekkerwijn. A playroom, acres of space, farm animals and the swimming pool and ponds keep kids busy, with trained “supernannies” available too.
The result is a gracious but unpretentious place to unwind and relax, as well as a perfect base from which to explore the area. I’ll start with them pesky, murdering neighbours on Delta farm, which was sold by the Pickstones.
No farm I have visited has done more to redress historical wrongs, with a one-third equity stake to residents and employees being just one meaningful initiative.
Johan O’Ryan, at Solms-Delta since it was owned by the Pickstones, took me exploring. The History Museum first, the Dik Delta food gardens next, which led to Fyndraai Restaurant and a meeting with chef Shaun Schoeman.
Schoeman experiments deliciously as he blends present and past influences. Ingredients used by the Khoi enliven his dishes and the combination of flavours in my pork belly with pickled spekboom and gooseberries was quite something.
There’s a striking glass dining area for fine weather but on a rainy day we were by the fire, admiring the Cape musical timeline mural.
Music has played a key note in transformation at Solms-Delta and Marco Lackey, part of the local music troupe, showed me the impressive, interactive Music van de Caab centre before I settled down with winemaker Joan Heatle for a tasting.
Like so much else at Solms-Delta, different and innovative – and delicious. Not just the wine, but the cider from South Africa’s oldest pear orchard.
After a relaxing evening at Lekkerwijn, I was back in better weather with a Fyndraai picnic basket to claim a beautiful spot along the forested riverbank. Chilled wine, chilled time. Lekker!
Lekkerwijn: Call 021 8741122 and visit www.lekkerwijn.com
Solms-Delta: Call 021 8743937 and visit www.solms-delta.co.za
Adrian Rorvik, Sunday Tribune